Sustainably Delicious by Michel Nischan

Author:Michel Nischan
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Rodale Press
Published: 2013-03-15T00:00:00+00:00

SHRIMP and GRITS

I have a theory that seems constant: When you eat the foods that are most available to you from a sustainable viewpoint—meaning they grow or live in the same region—they taste good together. Think of tomatoes and basil, winter squash and maple syrup, cod and potatoes.

Shrimp is a case in point. Native Americans tossed the shells from shrimp, scallops, lobsters, and other crustaceans on their small fields to fertilize the corn. The shells were ideal amendments to the soil, and the corn demanded very little extra help from the hand of man to flourish. Cooks discovered the sweetness of shellfish and the toasty flavor of corn is a winning marriage, and over the years have developed dishes that speak truth to this assumption. Of course, adding a good measure of andouille sausage makes for a fuller, richer dish.

Serves 6

1 CUP YELLOW HOMINY GRITS (I LIKE ANSON MILLS ANTEBELLUM GRITS) ( SEE NOTE )

18 LARGE SHRIMP (16/20 COUNT), PEELED AND DEVEINED

3 CUPS BUTTERMILK

2½ CUPS WATER

2 TEASPOONS SEA SALT

1 CUP WHOLE MILK

SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

¼ CUP GRATED AGED SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE, SUCH AS CYPRESS GROVE MIDNIGHT MOON, OR PECORINO ROMANO

1 TABLESPOON + 1 PINT GRAPESEED OIL

ABOUT 5 OUNCES ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE, HALVED LENGTHWISE AND CUT INTO ¼"- THICK SLICES

½ SMALL TO MEDIUM YELLOW ONION, CUT POLE TO POLE INTO ¼"-THICK SLICES

1 RED BELL PEPPER, SEEDED, MEMBRANES REMOVED, AND CUT INTO 3"-LONG STRIPS

2 CUPS CANNED TOMATOES, CHOPPED

1½ CUPS CORNMEAL

ABOUT ¼ CUP SLICED FRESH CILANTRO FOR GARNISH

Cover the hominy grits with water in a mixing bowl. Stir and let the grits settle for a few minutes. Using a small strainer, skim off the chaff and hulls that rise to the surface. Cover the pan. Let the grits stand for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

Combine the shrimp and buttermilk in a large bowl a few hours before you are ready to prepare the dish. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Drain the grits and transfer to a stockpot. Add the water and sea salt and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cover the pot. Cook for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Adjust the heat up or down to maintain a low simmer. When done, the grits will be quite thick.

Stir in the milk and cheese until the grits are creamy. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, if necessary. Cover and set aside to keep warm.

While the grits are cooking, heat a saucepan over medium-low heat. When hot, put 1 tablespoon of the oil and the sausage into the pan. Cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the sausage is lightly browned on both sides. Transfer the sausage to a warm plate and set aside.

Add the onion to the pan and increase heat to medium. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until softened and lightly browned. Add the bell pepper and cook for 3 minutes longer, or until the slices begin to soften. Stir in the tomatoes, reduce the heat to low, and cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the vegetables reach a saucelike consistency.

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